I love how easy it is (and sometimes the cheapest option) to take the train in Spain. Taking the train can be a better option than flying since the stations are usually located in or nearby the city center and it can also be faster (no long security lines / lag time to board). SGDF and I hopped on an hour-long train from Sevilla to Cordoba to continue our Southern Spain trip.
Day 1
We stayed close by the train station at Hotel Cordoba Center since we only had 1.5 days in town. Tip: You can find this 4-star hotel on hotels.com. I would definitely go back and stay here during the summer to take advantage of it’s amazing rooftop pool and terrace (see below).
After checking in, we immediately went into town to explore the city center. I heard about the architecture in Cordoba – white buildings, flowers hanging along the walls, and colorful roofs and trimmings – and just loved wandering the streets. Cordoba has this inviting atmosphere, warmth, and liveliness, though it could have also been that Christmas spirit.
I also heard of a various Arabic bathhouses in Cordoba so we went to Banos Arabes de Cordoba to check it out and see if we could make a reservation (we could have had the hotel call but it was on the way). Tip: If you want a massage, make sure to make a reservation since it was pretty full and seemed like a popular spot. After we booked our reservations for the bathhouse, we headed to Mezquita-catedral (Mosque and now-Cathedral of Cordoba).
We made the mistake of lining up at the first line we saw. Luckily SGDF overheard some Spaniards talking about another line to buy tickets (also proof that I need to improve my Spanish). Tip: Make sure you are in the right line since there is a separate line to buy tickets and another line to get inside. Also, there are two areas / lines you can buy tickets, one is for the machine (WAY FASTER) and the other is waiting for a customer rep (go with the machine since there were reps standing next to the machines to help out). There is another area (and I’m assuming another line) to get audio guides (we opted out of that one at this point…way too much queuing).
Once inside, there are free paper maps that identify the different areas and works of art in the Mezquita-Catedral. We learned that this site was originally a basilica and then it was converted into a mosque in 711 when the Muslims ruled. When the Christians took over after the Reconquista in 1236, it was converted into a cathedral. The shifts in religious influence explain why there are various architectural styles (slideshow below). I was in awe and ecstatic because I was finally seeing this famous building from my art history books come to life. Photos really do not do this place justice.
We didn’t realize how much time we spent inside the Mezquita-Catedral and honestly, we probably could have spent more time there, but my stomach started to growl. We left to get lunch near the Roman bridge but fell into a tourist trap. Needless to say, it wasn’t very memorable. After lunch, we went to the Gate of the Roman Bridge where we paid 1 euro to climb the stairs and get a view of the bridge.
Fun fact, the Roman Bridge is the bridge used in Game of Thrones for the Volantis bridge.
We headed back into town to grab a bite and explore the side streets before our reservation at Banos Arabes at 8PM. Eating dinner at 7PM was way too early / uncommon, especially in the South of Spain. We ended up finding a bar to grab a few tapas that turned out to be really good given the random find (I wish I wrote down the name of that bar).
When we arrived to the Banos Arabes, the front desk gave us instructions. They provided robes and flip flops and there are separate locker rooms / bathrooms where you can wash up, change into your bathing suit, and store your valuables. Tip: They aren’t the greatest showers / very little space so if you don’t have to shower, then I would wait until you are back home / at the hotel.
Surprisingly it was packed for a Tuesday evening at 8PM, mostly filled by other couples. There are various sections – 1) First room is a salt / room temperature bath (because of the salt, it was really easy to float around) with lounge chairs and tables set up if you want complimentary tea, 2) Larger room temperature bath, 3) Tiny icy cold bath, 4) Hot bath, and 5) Massage room next to the hot bath room (a dozen tables next to one another so not very private but everyone is in a bathing suit / covered with towels). If you have a massage booked, the masseuse will walk around and call out your name. Overall, it was good and a relaxing experience and recommend it given how quickly we passed out afterwords.
Day 2
After getting some churros for breakfast, we headed to the Synagogue. The line was so long to get inside that we decided to skip it and stumbled upon this open market called Zoco Municipal de la Artesania. We didn’t shop around too much but it was worth strolling through to admire the architecture.
We headed to Cordoba’s Alcazar, where we were welcomed with another long line. Unlike the Mezquita-Catedral, there was only one line to enter and purchase tickets, which caused the back-up. We were waiting for 15 minutes when we overhead people mentioning a faster way to get in. Tip: Head to the Banos Califales first to get tickets for both the Alcazar and Banos Califales for 5.5 euros. Once we had our tickets, we were able to go directly to the front of the line and enter.
This Alcazar’s interior seemed less grand and lavish compared to the one in Sevilla, but the gardens… (just look at the photos below). We spent the majority of the time exploring the gardens and enjoying the odd summer-like weather in December.
Afterwords, we headed to the Banos Califales, previously the city’s main Arab Baths and now a museum, to cash in our second pair of tickets. It was interesting to learn more about the bath houses and the significance it played when the Moors were in control.
We were starving by time we finished exploring and headed to Caballo Rojo, a restaurant across the Mezquita-Catedral that was recommended by SGDF’s uncle. The downstairs section is the bar area, which serves food in a more casual setting, and the upstairs portion is a finer dining experience. We ordered the salmorejo (traditional in this part of Spain), lamb chops, and seared duck. Everything was amazing and worth splurging for the level of service and food.
We had to walk off our food coma so we wandered around town. We ended up in Plaza del Potro, an open square, and then navigated the side streets to Plaza las Canas, which reminded me of Plaza Mayor in Madrid. We circled back towards our hotel and stumbled upon the Palacio de la Merced, a beautiful historical building, before getting our bags and catching the train. Hasta pronto Cordoba, it was an amazing time!
Across Oceans & Travels 